More progress in module land today. I’m working in the yard throat area at this point, as most of the scenic challenges are in this area. I wanted to bring a road into the module to provide access to the small loco shop, and also truck access to the station platform.
This shot shows the overall area I’m talking about. The bright white areas are going to be roads and parking areas (part of the large parking area will also contain the yard/shop office).The roadway heading out of frame to the right services the station platform.
I’ve got a sorta odd way of dealing with the roadways planned. First, I found that two layers of cork roadbed, two layers of standard foamboard, or a combination of the two is real close to the same height as the rail head. That made the “grading” for the roads pretty easy. Tomorrow, I’ll make a trip to HD to get some sandpaper to surface the roads with (I’m hoping that they’ll have some that’s self-adhesive). I’m planning for these to be dirt/packed sand roadways. The appropriate grit of sand paper should be perfect. And, I can drag something over the surface to make “tire tracks.”
As you can see, I’ve also gone ahead and installed the grade crossings themselves. It’s probably backwards, but it works better for me this way, as I don’t have to worry about whether or not ballast has gotten on top of the ties. I can also do a good job of testing to make sure that locos run over the crossing okay more easily with less scenery goop in the way.
My technique for making grade crossings is ridiculously simple, and almost just like some prototypes — railroad ties! I use S-scale standard-gauge “profile” ties. Using Peco track, three will fit perfectly between the rails and allow just the right spacing for rolling
stock wheels to pass with ease. Also, they can be glued atop the “spikes” on the outside of the rails, and require only a little “shaving” to be at rail-head height.
For the contours of the hill, and other areas, I’m using a version of Howard Zane’s glue-shell technique. Because I’m not making mountains, just small hills, I make topographic contour blocks out of foam, instead of a cardboard web, and hot-glue the rosin paper over the contours. I then “paint” the white glue over the paper. This time around, I decided to try adding my first layer over scenic texture while the glue was still wet. In general, this worked really well, and I’ll probably continue with this technique.
One thing I did learn, however, is that’s probably not a great idea to have already installed the ground throws, at least in my case. I’m using colored grout as the base texture for my scenery, because it does a great job of replicating the sandy soil on Maryland’s Eastern Shore. However, it also does a great job of boogering up the works in the Caboose Industries ground throws. I managed to kill one, and damage two others. I’ve got one repaired, and replaced the ruined one. I’ll remove the ground throws prior to any more work with the grout, and replace them once it’s set up.
That’s all for tonight. Time to kick back and relax for the evening — a little reading, a little time with Donna, and a new episode of Battlestar Galactica. What could be better?

