For those who might have been wondering, there is some progress on the modules. Which is a good thing, since Kimberton’s rapidly approaching!
Here, the turntable module is attached to the end of the yard. The black area will be the foundation for a small engine house.
The turntable is, for now, an “armstrong” affair. I have some minor issues with it wanting to bind up as it’s turned. I think it’s because the bearing point for the pivot is cast from a fairly soft metal, and it’s gotten slightly out-of-round — a problem I’m not going to worry about for the moment. I’ll deal with that when I motorize it.
I ordered some materials from Paper Creek for the engine house, but found out today that there’s no way that they’ll be here in time to get the thing even started. The way I look at it, all the “unfinished business” just gives people something to look forward to the next time the modules come “out to play.”
For now, I’m moving on to things like electrical inter-connects and legs. Once they’re nailed down, if there’s time, I’ll move back to scenery and such.
Well, I used a 1/4″ phone plug and jack for the pivot on Trevor’s turntable. Bored out a large diameter plastic gear and Loctite’d that to a bushing I turned for the plug section. It pivots and transfers power to the bridge rails without mechanical polarity change (a Lenz ASR handles that when the gaps are shorted). The whole bridge can be lifted straight up and out of the pit. It does require a support at the alignment points, but your pit rail will handle that. The jack portion will be replacable if wear becomes an issue.
CA
Thanks, Chris. It may be too late for that, in this case. I’m really not sure how I’m going to retro-fit this thing.
My present thought is to make a plate that I can mount under the pit that has a rigid bearing with an axle through it. The length will have to be such that the bridge “floats” just above the pit rail so the wipers can still contact the rail.
Whatever I do, I’ll post it here.
I meant to say Lenz LK100 – I don’t know where the ASR came from.
Well, you could use a pair of inexpensive replacement ball bearing assemblies meant for inline skates and a piece of suitable diameter drill rod (aka silver steel) for the pivot shaft. Then all you would need is a piece of brass/steel/plastic drilled to accept the shaft diameter adhered in the centre of the bridge assembly. Loctite that to the top of the drill rod and away you go…
What ever you do do not ask the guy who designed the kit!!!!
But, I hate to see you struggle!
The fit of the shaft in the Britannia metal bearing should be LOOSE. You can probably have about .005 to .010″ slop in that fit. My guess is that you didn’t clean the flash in the hole.
The bridge is supposed to be supported by the sheels and the bearing/shaft only keeps the wheels on the rail.
BTW, I can supply a motorizing kit made to order.
Jack
Why, indeed, Jack.
It may be because my phone calls and e-mails to you were never answered. It may be because other experienced modelers to whom I spoke had similar problems, and were treated as if they were idiots.
Here’s the problem. If you have slack in the bushing that allows the pivot to wobble, the pivot will bind. .005-.010″ is probably too much slack. As the turntable turns, and the wobble occurs, the center hole gets widened further, and gets pushed out of round, exacerbating the problem. The fact that the bridge on the one that I built was also slightly warped didn’t help.
To help correct the problem, a larger bearing surface is needed, which will reduce the wobble — even with a warped bridge. Relying on the wheels to support the table, in this case, is a bad thing. And, since the center pivot/bearing surface is completely hidden with when the bridge is installed, using a “scale” part is not necessary — in fact, it’s another “bad thing.”
I would suggest, as a kit manufacturer, that you would consider that the ones you sell have to be built by modelers other than yourself. Make a kit which can be built easily, and you won’t have your feelings hurt when people (a) complain and (b) modify your precious design.
Geren,
I make an effort to help ANYONE who asks for assistance with one of my kits. I want to see these kits in use, not sitting on the shelf.
I always answer my email (usually a several times a day every day) and want to help YOU.
I can always be reached at freshwatermodels@yahoo.com
You should be able to reach me by phone. I’m here most evenings and most of the day. I also have an answering machine.
There should be clearance between the bottom of the centerbox and the top of the bearing if the kit was built according to the instructions.
Just clean the flash from the center hole. That is all you need to do. The bridge should have the wheels running on the pit rail. That is how the kit was designed. The bearing was not designed as a thrust bearing, only to keep the wheels on the pit rail. The wheels carry the load. If you try to use the pivot shaft other than a centering device guaranteed you will have problems. The reason is that the bottom of the centerbox is not finished as a bearing surface and was not intended as a bearing surface.
You said nothing about a warped bridge when you received it. You said everything was fine. Had you said there was a problem I would have replaced it promptly. I have replaced 2 bridges, one damaged in shipping and one that should have been rejected.
If you would like a replacement bridge and are willing to build the tt as designed, I can send you the bridge of the kit I started for myself. It is painted. I can also supply you with a replacement bearing if yours is buggered up. Just send me your bridge and I will send you my bridge and some other parts. I may be able to send you other parts if you need them. I would also be more than willing to try to answer any questions about building the kit.
Please email me for further assistance!
Jack Mc Kie
http://www.freshwatermodels.net
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