The DCC decoders on the rail trucks that ship from Bachmann are “dual mode,” meaning that they should run on DC out of the box. If not, there should be a small 8-pin “shorting plug” that came with the model. You’ll need to remove the “boxes” in the bed of the truck and insert the plug in place of the decoder.

“You can imagine my surprise spotting good old Keg Harbour on your website!

Glad to see you’re finding the design useful, although trying to build it with Peco track is pretty ambitious… it was definitely conceived for handlaid track. The diamond isn’t the hardest bit either… the turnout next to it, on the end of the wharf, is a lapped 3-way. Every proper layout needs a puzzle switch. The module is now in storage for the summer, but will re-emerge in the fall for the last bit of trackwork and more scenery.

Let me know if you have any questions about it. I have some other variations on the design that might interest you too.”

Thanks for the note, Rob. I realized as I was piecing the Peco turnouts together that, especially in the wharf area, there’d be lots of cutting and trimming involved. But, I’m no stranger to modifying track and switches. While I’ll have to forego the lap switch, by stretching things out a little bit and pretty severely trimming a couple of switches, it will all work out pretty nicely, leaving only the crossing to be hand-laid.

It would be fun sometime, once both module sets are done, to get them side-by-side to see what we’ve each come up with. And, I’d love to see some of your other ideas!

Thanks, Rob, for your comments!

You’re right! That is a more appealing loco.

Might make a fine conversion to S standard gauge, too…

Thanks for your comments. The yard is based on a prototype operation — that did not have a run-around. You can read more about it here. The key to its operation is the use of a second locomotive which waits in the pocket at the lower left of the plan.

I just jumped into this scale/gauge this week with a Bachmann Forney and a bunch of cars to convert a HO Time Saver to O scale. A 2-4-4 in O is shorter than a Geep in HO and the Bachmann cars are right in between 40 and 50 foot HO cars for length.

I make an effort to help ANYONE who asks for assistance with one of my kits. I want to see these kits in use, not sitting on the shelf.

I always answer my email (usually a several times a day every day) and want to help YOU.

I can always be reached at freshwatermodels@yahoo.com

You should be able to reach me by phone. I’m here most evenings and most of the day. I also have an answering machine.

There should be clearance between the bottom of the centerbox and the top of the bearing if the kit was built according to the instructions.

Just clean the flash from the center hole. That is all you need to do. The bridge should have the wheels running on the pit rail. That is how the kit was designed. The bearing was not designed as a thrust bearing, only to keep the wheels on the pit rail. The wheels carry the load. If you try to use the pivot shaft other than a centering device guaranteed you will have problems. The reason is that the bottom of the centerbox is not finished as a bearing surface and was not intended as a bearing surface.

You said nothing about a warped bridge when you received it. You said everything was fine. Had you said there was a problem I would have replaced it promptly. I have replaced 2 bridges, one damaged in shipping and one that should have been rejected.

If you would like a replacement bridge and are willing to build the tt as designed, I can send you the bridge of the kit I started for myself. It is painted. I can also supply you with a replacement bearing if yours is buggered up. Just send me your bridge and I will send you my bridge and some other parts. I may be able to send you other parts if you need them. I would also be more than willing to try to answer any questions about building the kit.

Please email me for further assistance!

Jack Mc Kie
http://www.freshwatermodels.net

It may be because my phone calls and e-mails to you were never answered. It may be because other experienced modelers to whom I spoke had similar problems, and were treated as if they were idiots.

Here’s the problem. If you have slack in the bushing that allows the pivot to wobble, the pivot will bind. .005-.010″ is probably too much slack. As the turntable turns, and the wobble occurs, the center hole gets widened further, and gets pushed out of round, exacerbating the problem. The fact that the bridge on the one that I built was also slightly warped didn’t help.

To help correct the problem, a larger bearing surface is needed, which will reduce the wobble — even with a warped bridge. Relying on the wheels to support the table, in this case, is a bad thing. And, since the center pivot/bearing surface is completely hidden with when the bridge is installed, using a “scale” part is not necessary — in fact, it’s another “bad thing.”

I would suggest, as a kit manufacturer, that you would consider that the ones you sell have to be built by modelers other than yourself. Make a kit which can be built easily, and you won’t have your feelings hurt when people (a) complain and (b) modify your precious design.