The On30 Guy at Wednesday Train Nights on 08/03/11

Kevin and I got together for the first Wednesday night gathering, and started working on some water, both on the north end of Corinna and on Kevin’s covered bridge module.

Creek bed painted with Behr Premium "Fedora" paint.

I actually started work in Corinna late in the afternoon, because I wanted the first batch of color to be dry in time to start working with whomever came over. The first step was to paint the base coat on the creek bed. As usual for the base color, I chose the Behr Premium “Fedora” wall paint, and brush it on liberally. To urge the paint to dry a little more quickly, I used a fan, which worked perfectly. By the time Kevin arrived, the paint was completely dry!

Now that the base color was in place, I got out my reference photos and turned on my memory to start to work on the “look” for the water in this scene. One thing about the water in Maine that is striking is that it’s usually very clear. And, the bottoms of most ponds and streams like this have a kind of distinctive rockiness that needed to be captured.

I thought that one way to do this might be to use some “crackle” paint. Crackle paint is a thick, clear, gel-like substance that you paint over a base coat and allow it to partially dry. Then, you paint the still tacky surface carefully with a color that contrasts your base color. The thicker your coating of crackle paint, the larger your splits will be, so I applied a thin coat to the areas near the shoreline, and coming into the creek about 1/3 of the way on each side.

Bits of "Pot Topper" planted at the base of the spillway retaining wall

While waiting for the crackle paint to dry, I started setting in some of the additional flora that would be growing near the base of the spillway. I decided to try another experiment here, this time using bits of “Pot Topper” material to represent the vibrant plant life that often grows near creek beds. I had seen magazine articles about this material, but I was still skeptical until I saw it on the layout. The stuff looks perfect, and is a fraction of the cost of the Silflor products. It looks as if you could either use tiny tufts like I did here, or even plant large chunks wherever you need some bright ground cover.

Mixture of "Slate Gray" and "Concrete" paints swirled onto the crinkle paint

By this point, the crackle paint had been drying for the prescribed length of time, so I applied a light coat of some lighter paint — a swirly mix of Woodland Scenics “Slate Gray” and “Concrete” colors. Initially, I wasn’t too happy with the look, so I added some more water and swirled it around a little more. The result looks fairly wrong here, but once the “water” gets poured on, things tend to darken up a little, so I decided to go with it.

Stones and rocks added to the stream bed

I also decided that a few larger rocks were needed in the stream. In this case, there wouldn’t be a lot, but a few definitely were in order. We selected some of the flatter pieces from a bag of aquarium/terrarium decorative stone, and I placed them in the creek, above the bridge.

While all of this was drying, we turned our attention to Kevin’s bridge module. Unfortunately, we didn’t take any pictures, but the effect we wanted there was a typical central Maryland/Pennsylvania creek. These creeks tend to have a sandy bottom with a jumble of rocks and stones.

For the sandy bottom, we used one of my favorite sand/dirt base materials — sanded grout over the Fedora paint. I tend to treat the grout just like any other scenic texture. I spread it over the still wet paint, and then soak it with “wet water,” and then continue to build on top of that. Once I have the look I’m after, I spray on some more wet water, and then saturate the area with diluted matte medium. For me, this is a tried-and-true method that always produces something that looks good.

By this time, lighter color paint on the Corinna creek bed was dry, but the crackling wasn’t happening. I decided to go ahead and pour the water anyway. And, being the glutton for punishment that I am, I decided to try a material that I had previously had very bad luck with: Woodland Scenics Realistic Water.

First pour of the Woodland Scenics Realistic Water

The Realistic Water pours on a milky gray, and eventually dries clear. I know it’s supposed to. I’ve seen it. Of course, that was not my result the first time I used it, and I ended up having to start over. “On hand” sometimes trumps common sense, however.

One interesting thing happened, though — after the water was poured and had been setting up for a while, the crackling started below the surface. The result was looking almost exactly like what I had in mind.

And, as I headed out the door this morning, I went down and too a peek at the creek. So far, it looks as if it will actually dry clear, although there’s been significant shrinkage. After dinner tonight, I’ll do some more work in the area, and then another pour. And, of course, more pictures!

Regular Gatherings…

I was talking to Kevin yesterday, and the a couple of topics came up — getting some serious progress going on the C&S, and getting some regular get-togethers for the MADmodules group going. We decided that once a week, we’d have some sort of thing happening, either in the basement here to work on the C&S or down at his shop to work on, well, whatever. So, starting next week, we’ll be having weekly gatherings to get things done. My hope through this is to get enough of a railroad running to start regular operating sessions by year’s end. We’ll see how this goes, but for now, I’m really looking forward to Wednesday!

Searsport: Looking Ahead

Perkins Produce designed and built be Earl Smallshow, from the December 1974 Model Railroader article.,

Morgan Hill Models have announced their first structure kit, and it’s a classic! Originally designed by Earl Smallshaw, and featured in Model Railroader in December of 1974, Perkins Produce has always been a favorite of mine. When I first saw the announcement for the kit, I thought that I would just pull out my copy of the plans, and scratchbuild the structure when the time came. I mean, even though the original model was not set in New England, to my knowledge, the building simply screams MAINE!

The more I thought about it, the more I thought that the pre-release price looked to be an excellent value. And so, I’ve ordered one of the kits.

My order is not entirely without reservation. The actual kit was designed with input from Bill Banta, the same gentleman who designed the Herbert’s Crossing Freight House I used for the freight shed in Corinna. But, from the description, it seems that steps have been taken in the design of this kit to eliminate the problems I had with that kit.

Perkins Produce structure on the waterfront of Martin Collard's Borodino & Southern RR.

While originally built on the side of a hill, my intention is to use the structure on the waterfront in Searsport, similar to the way that Martin Collard has on his HO scale Borodino & Southern RR. This is a fairly major deviation from my original idea of how Searsport should look. In my mind, Searsport was to be based on Wiscassett. Of course, Searsport is a real town that once had a thriving shipbuilding industry, so depicting a busy waterfront on the layout is not entirely out of line.

Today’s Work in Corinna

As promised, more progress on the railroad today. The Cell-u-Clay was almost completely dried, and so I slathered on a quite gloppy coat of Behr Premium “Fedora” flat latex paint, and proceeded to layer on the texture.

Applying the latex paint base coat. For the most part, I use a 1" chip brush for this work, and paint up onto the cork roadbed, just short of hitting the ties.

While the paint was still wet, I started applying texture.

Here, the first layer of texture, Scenic Express "Earth Blend" has been sprinkled unevenly over the still-wet paint.

The earth color is being followed with an application of "Green Adirondack Blend" and "Alpine Blend".

The same treatment was applied around the stone retaining walls near the creek bed.

And here's the view after a layer of the "base" textures have been applied.

Overall view of North Corinna, the trestle, and the creek area. The area has been completely saturated with a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water, followed by diluted matte medium.

A couple of observations are in order. I opened up a new “jar” of the Adirondack Blend today, and found that it is significantly “greener” than the previous one, which caused there to be a bit of a mismatch between the sections. Fortunately, the Alpine Blend is still the same, and I was able to use it to do some blending. Since I need to go back to repair a little bit of the scenery on the other two sections, I’ll be able to spread the brighter color around a little.

And, obviously, I’ve still not done anything with the creek bed yet. When I was working in the railroad room this morning, I was still trying to find out exactly what that’s supposed to look like. Fortunately, I was just able to find some snapshots a hiker took in the region while hiking the Appalachian Trail a couple of years back that will be excellent guides. With a few exceptions, the scenery is actually very much like the scenery here.

True Scene Modeling

Yesterday, I talked about using Cell-u-Clay as a material for model railroad scenery. There is a similar product on the market that is made just for model railroads called True Scene. While I haven’t used the product myself, I have looked at it, and it looks promising. True Scene comes in a couple of colors and a couple of textures, while Cell-u-Clay comes as only a fine, gray powder.

Here’s a short video that the True Scene folks have produced that describes the product and shows it in use:

There are a couple of interesting properties of True Scene that I’m really curious about — specifically, the ability to re-shape or re-use it after it’s dried. I’ve not tried that with Cell-u-Clay, but will try it with a small hunk when I get back down to the basement on Sunday.

If any of you have used the True Scene products, I’d love to hear about your experiences. You can leave a comment here on this post, of if you’re not comfortable with that, you can use the Contact page to send me a note.